I then followed the FSM for the tightening procedures. With the timing, I lined up the two lines on the cam with the head, made sure the arrow on the cam was pointing up, then lined up the crank using the dot on the crank along with the mark on the lower timing cover. Well, how certain are you the timing belt isn't a tooth off? what resources did you use? can you tell me how you lined up the cam and crank marks? I'm assuming you used the original intake manifold right? there is a procedure, it's not just tighten them up so the play is gone(as i suspect you already know) this will tell you if ignition timing is not messed up for whatever reason.ĭid you adjust the valves with the new timing belt? it's unlikely the valves are the problem, but if you did adjust them, tell me how you did it. as compression builds against your palm spark should fire just before the compression reduces. now firmly place your hand over the spark plug tube. put it in the plug boot and hold it to ground(as if checking spark). i don't know if the dizzzzzy you swapped in there had it's own cap already installed.Īnother thing to check timing wise is remove cylinder 2 spark plug. if you don't have spark at 2 and 3, pull the distributor cap and check the terminals in there. How did you check spark? did you check at the plug wires? did you check all the cylinders? normally you just pull one and check and say, hey, it has spark! but in this case check all four plug wires first. Well, how certain are you the timing belt isn't a tooth off? what resources did you use? can you tell me how you lined up the cam and crank marks?the balancer belt will cause a vibration throughout the engine, so if that's off it won't cause the hell you have. Apart from that, I can't think of many more things to test/check. When it's in correctly, it's completely flush.Īny other ideas, aside from the ignition switch? I figured on double checking and making sure injectors #2&3 are firing. I understand what you're saying about the distributor and the offset now.it's definitely in the right way because if I rotate it 180 and try to put it in, it only goes in crooked and leaves a tiny gap at the top. I won't rule the ignition switch out however since I am able to start it up and remove the key from the ignition no matter what position it's in. It seems like it would have ran on all 4. The oher thing I couldn't figure out was that if it IS the ignition switch, how come when it started it was only running on two cylinders as opposed to all 4. I was hoping that if the ignition was the problem, doing one of the above two things would produce a change.unfortunately it remained the same. I also tried keeping it turned to the start position (keeping the starter engaged) after it initially catches and it doesn't have an effect either.
I've tried jiggling and alternating how far I let off after it catches, and it doesn't have an effect. You and I think alike, I thought it may have been the ignition switch as well. Any ideas on what this could be? All ideas are welcome as this car has been down for almost a month (I only get to work on it sporadically) and I'd like to get it going. When I unplugged 2&3, it made no difference to how the car ran. For example, it was running rough so I unplugged each cylinder one at a time. All of the spark plugs were firing however only cylinder 1 and cylinder 4 were running the car. The one time that I did get it started, it was the weirdest thing. The exact symptoms are that when you try to start it, it turns over two or three times, catches immediately, then stops. I've also ran the K-test, tested the main relay, listened for the fuel pump (it runs), tested for fuel at the injectors (there is), unplugged the injectors from the cylinders and watched them pulse as the engine cranks, checked for spark, replaced the distributor cap, replaced the plugs and wires, tested a known good distributor.I'm about out of things to test. The timing belt is dead on, as verified by both me and another set of eyes. In replacing the engine, I also replaced the timing belt and water pump. My problem is what the title says, the Engine will start for a second, then dies. In replacing the engine, I used one from an Accord (exact same engine except for CPS) from Japan. I have a 1997 Honda Odyssey that I recently replaced both the engine and the transmission (due to the old engine burning oil).
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